Category Archives: Grains

Fife Flour Sourdough

Mr. Stephenson is a huge fan of Red Fife, an old Canadian wheat that has recently been experiencing a bit of a renaissance, and rightly so. As I was out of rye flour, I decided to try and adjust my standard rye sourdough to Red Fife – Mr. Stephenson made a light but intensely flavoured Fife yeast loaf some weeks ago, so this should be a an interesting experiment.

Recipe: Red Fife Sourdough

Summary: A tangy wheat bread, made with Red Fife

Ingredients

  • 300 g Red Fife flour
  • 200 g hard bread flour
  • 15 g smoked salt
  • 200 g active sourdough starter
  • 350 ml (plus) water

Instructions

  1. Day One

    Take the sourdough starter out of the fridge. Feed generously

    Day Two, morning

    Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl. Add the starter and stir in. Start kneading, I use a kneading hook and a Kitchen Aid stand mixer, on speed 2. Add the water, adjust until a shiny dough has started to form.

    Go have a shower, get dressed, feed the cats. Come back after 10 minutes and check the dough. If you can see gluten development – take a little dough and stretch it – you’re done for now. Take the dough and put it in an oiled bowl. Cover, refrigerate, go to work.

    Day Two, Evening

    Arrive home, open a beer. Relax. Take the dough out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature, about two hours. It should have grown a little, but don’t worry if it doesn’t look as if anything has happened.

    After two hours, pre-heat the oven to 500º. Take the dough and stretch and fold three or four times. Put into a floured banneton for the last rise. After an hour, drop the dough into an earthenware cloche or on a pizza stone and bake for 40 – 45 minutes or until the bread has an internal temperature of 200º.

Prep time (duration): 30 minutes

IMGP5643 (1)

As you can see, it worked out reasonably well. I didn’t score the dough deep enough before putting it in the oven, so the oven spring forced one side further open than the others, but the loaf tastes great and at the end of the day that’s what matters. The entire rise was done by wild yeasts, with no commercial product added.

I shot a couple of snippets with the iPhone video camera. Mr. Stephenson, who is a professional in these matters, is working on a far better looking solution but until that arrives this will have to do. It should give at least an idea of what the bread looks like at various stages through it’s creation.

YouTube Preview Image

PS: A note about salt, and smoked salt in particular.

Salt and smoke are the enemy of microorganisms, like yeast; that’s why we use them both to preserve meat and fish. By combining salt and smoke we’re making the yeast’s life double difficult. Salt is a necessity in bread, it makes the bread, but too much salt will kill our yeast. Smoked salt adds another layer of flavour, but you’ll have to be careful not to overdo it.

I mix smoked and plain salt in a 2:1 ratio. For 500 g flour (plus whatever starter weight I am using) I use 15 g salt, 10 g smoked, 5 g plain. That sounds like a lot, but the yeast seems to survive it and the flavour is excellent.

Midweek baking

When Mr. Duess and Mr. Stephenson talk to friends, and frequently strangers, about their adventures in the kitchen where they bake bread, cure meats and lure unsuspecting lacto-acidic bacteria into carefully prepared habitats there’s one all to frequent question:

“Where do you find the time?”

Now, both Mr. Duess and Mr. Stephenson are far from being retired, years away from sitting quietly on their front porch, pipe in hand and feet beslipperd. Yet they like few things better than a slice of freshly baked rye bread, dipped into a humble dish of peppery olive oil. And to achieve that goal, midweek baking is frequently a necessity. Here’s how to do it:

Day One:

In the evening, take your sourdough starter out of the fridge and feed.

Day Two:

The next morning, prepare your dough. Today we used 180g rye and 320g wheat flower, with about a cup full of very active starter. Salt, water; about 300ml for a (roughly) 60% hydration of the dough. Add everything to your mixer and knead while you’re taking a shower. Take the resulting dough ball and put into an oiled bowl, cover and refrigerate. Go to work.

In the evening, remove dough from the fridge and allow to come to room temperature. Fold and stretch three times, then let rise in a banneton for two hours. After the first hour, pre-heat the oven to 500º. Bake for 45 minutes or until the bread has an internal temperature of 200º. This is the result:

IMGP5638


The loaf had hardly risen in the fridge, and even after three hours at room temperature little had changed. The rise happened almost exclusively in the oven – the so called oven spring, where the yeast goes on one last manic feeding frenzy before being killed off at just over 140º.

A simple sourdough bread

This is rapidly becoming our standard, always-have-a-loaf-around, bread. The recipe is very simple, the result is tasty; with a crisp crust and a chewy, flavourful interior.

You’ll need:

  • 350g unbleached bread flour
  • 150g rye flour
  • 15g kosher salt, ideally 10g smoked, 5g plain
  • About two tablespoon full of highly active sourdough starter
  • About 250ml water

If you don’t have access to sourdough starter instant yeast can be used. If you use yeast, mix 200 g bread flour with 200 ml water (this is called a 100% hydration sponge) and let it sit in the fridge overnight. The flavour of the bread will improve immeasurably. Add the yeast to the remaining flour and proceed.

IMGP5632

Sourdough starter.

Mix all your ingredients together and knead, either in a mixer or by hand. I use a Kitchen Aid stand mixer and knead on speed 2 for about five to ten minutes or until a shiny dough develops that clears the walls of the mixing bowl. You might add a little water if the mix is too dry.

Put the ball of dough into an oiled bowl and let it rest for three to five hours. If you want, you can even let it rise very slowly overnight in the fridge. The longer you’ll give the bread to rise, the lower the temperature needs to be. Accepted wisdom has it that bread should rise in a warm spot, and while that does get the yeast activated it also keeps it lazy, feeding on the simple sugars present in the mix. The longer you’ll leave it to rise, the harder the yeast has to work, breaking down the actual wheat and creating deliciousness in the process.

Once risen, take dough out of the bowl and put it on  a floured surface. Stretch it gently, then fold it over onto itself. Turn and repeat about six times. I proof my bread in a heavily floured banneton, or Brotform, a little basked made from reeds. It helps to create a lovely pattern on the bread and shapes it as it rises.

Preheat your oven to 500º. I use a cloche, a cover made from earthenware, to bake bread. It simulates the environment in a steam injected bakery oven and makes for a lovely crust. I highly recommend buying one of these, they changed the way I bake for the better. If you don’t have access to a cloche, you might want to use an unglazed flower pot, on top of a pizza stone with the drainage hole plugged by aluminum foil. Be careful that the pot doesn’t contain any nasty glazes not intended for human consumption.

After a second rise of 60 minutes, bake for about 10 minutes at full temperature, then reduce to 450º and bake until done, about 30-40 minutes. Check the core temperature, if it reads about 200º the bread is done. Enjoy.

IMGP5630