Author Archives: Mr Duess

The most secret and valuable of ingredients – time

In today’s world, most of us are time starved. From the moment we wake up, to the minute we go to bed, we tend to be in a hurry. No longer do we start the day ingesting a leisurely bowl of porridge, steaming hot and topped with a comforting dollop of honey, accompanied by a rejuvenating mug of coffee or tea, pondering the morning papers – no, we’re checking our email, tweeting on twitter and keeping up with the domestic and professional tribulations our friends go through on facebook. Neither Mr. Stephenson nor Mr. Duess are strangers to these pressures.

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Photo credit: gadl on flickr

This kind of life then leads to the publishing of a plethora of recipe books and magazines, for those of us who can still be bothered to cook, promising culinary ecstasy in 30 minutes or less. Which is of course utter nonsense and the path to disappointment and mediocracy.

The truth of the matter is that good food takes time. Good anything takes time. Time, not unlike bacon, makes most things better. Wine, pickles, cheese, vinegar, bread, sausages. Even fish, if you decide to hang it in the smoke.

The good news is that once you’ve paid into the time bank, by curing bacon, smoking fish, feeding a sourdough starter or canning tomatoes, you are then able to withdraw deliciousness. And get a proper meal on the table, in ten minutes or less. A loaf of home made bread will not just still hunger, eating it will be an emotionally and sensually satisfying experience. It will make you happy the way a TV dinner never can. A basement full of shelves groaning under the weight of preserves, pickles and canned vegetables will warm your heart on a cold winter morning. And a  slab of smoked bacon, wrapped in cheeseloth, will fill you with joy and anticipation.

And all because you’ve added time, the secret, and most precious of ingredients.

A simple sourdough bread

This is rapidly becoming our standard, always-have-a-loaf-around, bread. The recipe is very simple, the result is tasty; with a crisp crust and a chewy, flavourful interior.

You’ll need:

  • 350g unbleached bread flour
  • 150g rye flour
  • 15g kosher salt, ideally 10g smoked, 5g plain
  • About two tablespoon full of highly active sourdough starter
  • About 250ml water

If you don’t have access to sourdough starter instant yeast can be used. If you use yeast, mix 200 g bread flour with 200 ml water (this is called a 100% hydration sponge) and let it sit in the fridge overnight. The flavour of the bread will improve immeasurably. Add the yeast to the remaining flour and proceed.

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Sourdough starter.

Mix all your ingredients together and knead, either in a mixer or by hand. I use a Kitchen Aid stand mixer and knead on speed 2 for about five to ten minutes or until a shiny dough develops that clears the walls of the mixing bowl. You might add a little water if the mix is too dry.

Put the ball of dough into an oiled bowl and let it rest for three to five hours. If you want, you can even let it rise very slowly overnight in the fridge. The longer you’ll give the bread to rise, the lower the temperature needs to be. Accepted wisdom has it that bread should rise in a warm spot, and while that does get the yeast activated it also keeps it lazy, feeding on the simple sugars present in the mix. The longer you’ll leave it to rise, the harder the yeast has to work, breaking down the actual wheat and creating deliciousness in the process.

Once risen, take dough out of the bowl and put it on  a floured surface. Stretch it gently, then fold it over onto itself. Turn and repeat about six times. I proof my bread in a heavily floured banneton, or Brotform, a little basked made from reeds. It helps to create a lovely pattern on the bread and shapes it as it rises.

Preheat your oven to 500º. I use a cloche, a cover made from earthenware, to bake bread. It simulates the environment in a steam injected bakery oven and makes for a lovely crust. I highly recommend buying one of these, they changed the way I bake for the better. If you don’t have access to a cloche, you might want to use an unglazed flower pot, on top of a pizza stone with the drainage hole plugged by aluminum foil. Be careful that the pot doesn’t contain any nasty glazes not intended for human consumption.

After a second rise of 60 minutes, bake for about 10 minutes at full temperature, then reduce to 450º and bake until done, about 30-40 minutes. Check the core temperature, if it reads about 200º the bread is done. Enjoy.

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The first run

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While it is way too warm, and will be until fall, to properly cold smoke meat and fish, I wanted to at least try the smokehouse.  In went some hard boiled eggs, a handful of heirloom tomatoes and some salt.

As you can see, it worked very well.

The cold smoker

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The smoking bullet on it's first test run

Today I finally tested the cold smoking box I’ve been building. The smoker is about 6″ high, built from pine on the inside and cedar on the outside. The box sits on a concrete block foundation to keep it dry and has a shingle roof.

Smoke is generated by a smoking bullet, fixed to the outside of the box. Air is pushed into the bullet by an aquarium air pump. The smoke is only very slightly warm when entering the smoke chamber. In today’s two hour test run there was no measurable temperature increase in the smoke box.

I had thought about insulating the box – there’s 2″ of space between the inner box and the outside siding, but then I decided against it. After all, it’s a cold smoker, I want it to be cold and come fall, the ambient temperature is supposed to keep the goods from spoiling during the smoking process.

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I built the entire box from pine boards, with the result that there were a number of gaps where boards were not butting up perfectly. To make sure that no smoke was leaking I covered the outside with construction paper, completely sealing the smoking box.

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Smoking box on the left, storage on the right.

Here’s a shot of the finished box. The smoking box is larger enough for anything I would want to smoke – sausages, fish, even an entire pig’s leg will fit without problems. With a heater installed the box can also be used as a drying box, for everything from biltong to tomatoes.

A simple thermostat connected to an electric fan heater should do the trick just fine. The box isn’t airtight, although there’s remarkably little smoke leakage, so running a fan should not be an issue.

For today’s test run I put a bowl of kosher salt into the smoker, shaking it a couple of times to make sure that the smoke had a time to adhere to all the salt. It smells wonderful, can’t wait to use it.